MONDAY MAY 1
The number one rule of border crossings: if you are not of the two countries
concerend and are not white then always expect problems. I was given a thorough
going over in trying to leave Thailand. So many boring questions. I don't mind
them as I don't have anything to hide but am always suspicious of corrupt
officials. They weren't on this occasion. I had no problems in getting in to Laos.
So in to Laos and in to the capital, sharing a tuk-tik with a Brit, a Thai and
a Dane. I also shared a room with the latter, along with a very experienced
(travelwise) Canadian. Only USD 2 per person.
Vientianne is not that impressive. The level of development is not that much
higher than that of Sylhet but whereas my home town is lively 24 hours a day,
this place seems to be sleeping for the same length! In the centre of town
there are more backpackers than locals!
There isn't a hell of a lot to do and see here besides visiting more wats but
the ones here don't compare with those I've already seen in Thailand. So spent
most of the day hanging out with the Canadian and the Dane but didn't really
like their company. Though at first I found them pretty interesting, when
the conversation shifted to the topic of which country's girls are the sexiest
and where the next joint could be gotten, I knew it was time for me to shift.
These people are so sad! There are better people amongst backpackers of course,
like this Dutch guy who seem to know so much about South East Asian history.
So I went to a mosque. There are two mosques in Vientiane; there are two mosques
Laos. There are about 500 muslims in Viantiane; there are about 500 muslims in
Laos. And so I was told by Hafeez Muhamamd Fayez of Lahore but currently teaching
Arabic to kids at the Jami Masjid in Central Viantiane.
The central masjid, run by Pakistanis (most of whom seem to giant footed Patans!),
is big enough to hold the entire Muslim population of Laos! There are two main
halls, but only one is used (only a quarter needed even for Jum'a), each about a
quarter to a third the size of the main hall of East London Masjid. It's amazing
that they have such a big place here. But unfortunately there aren't enough musollis
to fill it. Aside from Jum'a the biggest Jamat that I've seen consisted of less than 15.
TUESDAY MAY 2
Tuesday was one of the best days ever!
Took an 11 o'clck bus to the tiny town of Vang Vieng. En route , every few kilometers you'd see
heards of uniformed school children on cycles going/returning to/from schools. I'd
never seen so many school children, or any other group for that matter, cycling together.
Sometimes the groups were more than 100 strong! It was a fantastic site!
Vang Vieng is nestled in a bend in the Nam Song river, surrounded by very scenic karst topography
with limestone caves and tunnels. But I spent most of the first day mountain biking. And boy did I
have a good time or what! It's kinda wierd that I am so much in to cycling and yet I
hadn't really done much off-road biking before. I will do as much as possible from now on. It was
so much fun even though I had a crap bike! Imagine what it would be like with my Edinburgh Contour
500!
I cycled through the scenic mountains in to neighbouring villages. The people in the villages,
especially the kids, were so welcoming. Everybody would smile, say hello and wave...even kids of
two or three! It felt so good. They were also very helpful with directions. And they felt happy
that I went in to their villages and was taking pictures. Village people everywhere, I'd imagine,
are friendlier than townsfolk. But the people in Vientiane were also very nice.
When I went in to the villages I was always wishing that I could speak Lao. It would've been so
much better if I could speak. Man, I can't wait to go to Latin America! ( I can speak a little
Spanish). Hopefully the people are as friendly!
Now let me tell you a sad story. You know that Dane I shared with, well, he told me that he
doesn't want to meet local people but just wants to meet other backpackers so that he can improve
his English. Sad git!
I didn't go in to any caves on Tuesday nor climb any mountains. Tried to go in to one but the
river was in the way. But cycling was so much fun as it was! And it wasn't even difficult, just
fun! I cycled close to 30km but didn't feel tired at the end of it. In London I feel tired after
doing much less. I must be fitter now than when I started. The lack of air pollution also has
something to do with it of course.
You know, I felt so happy on Tuesday. I just wished my friends were here to share in the joy that
I was feeling. Well, seen as that won't be possible for most of you (Mustafa should be re-joining
me when I return to Bangkok and Faizal hopefully in Mexico) I thought I should at least write
these reports in slightly more detail. I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I do writing.
WEDNESDAY MAY 3
The plan was to climb a mountain straight after Fajar. But I still felt sleepy after the prayer
and so went back to sleep, waking for good at about 7. Headed for the mountain straight after
breakfast.
I was told by the bloke from whom I hired the bike on Tuesday that a return trip to the mountain
from town would take only an hour. Liar! But he could've mean "up to" rather than "up". Anyway, it
took close to 2 and a half hours. But it was such a fun trek! Getting to the base involved having
to cross two rivers, the second of which was thigh deep. I wish I was wearing my lungi, but I
didn't really notice the wet trouser for concentrating on the mountain.
It was a good thing I didn't go straight after Fajar for climbing the mountain - Pap Puak -
involves having to go through a cave whose entrance was locked. The gatekeeper came about 5
minutes after I did, opening for 25 pence.
I scrambled - yes, scrambled rather than walked - up Pap Puak with this elderly lady from Cologne.
It was quite a challenge to climb, especially for her, but the view from the top was well worth
the effort! Behind us were steep green mountains and in front lay the rivers, Vang Vieng and the
villages. I wasn't consertaive with the camera!
On the way down we went in to another cave. It wasn't a huge one for we were on the other side
before long. And this is where I lost my second sun-hat of this tour! Yes, the one with the silly
Adidas logo! Down the steep side of the mountain it went as I posed for a photo! It would've been
very very risky to attempt to get it back and I wasn't gonna take the risk for 83 pence!
Took a pick-up truck back to Vientiane. It took longer than the bus of the previous day and so I
missed the last bus to Lao Pako, an ecological resort on the Nam Ngum river. Could've taken
another pick-up but there would've been no point in arriving there at night. So stayed in
Viantiane and spent the evening relaxing in the masjid.
After Isha, went to an Indian restaurant, (which was actually run by Indians!), for rice and dhal.
I hadn't had dhal for 10 whole days! It wasn't as good as the stuff I had in Dhakah. Before
leaving, I asked the manager about the sub-continent community in Vientiane but he said that he
didn't know much as he's only been here for 3 years! (" I beleive there are more Pakistanis here"
)
THURSDAY MAY 4
Prayed Fajar in a masjid for the first time since Jhigly (my home village for those who don't
know). Took the 6:30am bus to the village of Somsamai, from where, for the last 12 km or so, took
a boat to Lao Pako. Unbeknown to me it is possible to go there without having to take an expensive
( 1 pound 50 pence) boat. My guidebook and the flyers didn't mention this at all!
Anyway, I had a great time im Lao Pako! It would've been fantastic as it was a great place for
some heavy duty mountain biking but all the bikes were totally messed up. Pity.
First went on a nature trail through the forest. It was quite enlightening and enjoyable. Most of
the trees there are replanted eucalyptus but there are some virgin forest.
I then canoed - I didn't do any of it in Bangladesh! - to the other side of the Nam Ngum river and
was ready to go on an another nature train (this time in a virgin forest). But as soon as I
crossed over I met these four boys (late teens) who were out hunting snake eggs with rifles and
machettes. (In Bangladesh you are told not to even touch them!). So I decided to join them. Well,
more like hanging around and taking the occasional snap of their activities! Unfortunately, they
didn't find any eggs while I was with them! They thought they'd found a nest but after much heavy
duty digging found nothing.
So they settled for picking 'lubies' (you know that fruit I was talking about in an earlier email,
the one I had in Bangladesh as a kid and absolutely love!) and gave me some. In return, I gave
them a packet of biscuit that I've been carrying around since Bangkok.
They then invited me to their village (Ban Thakai). I accepted gladly of course. Lao villages are
not as developed as the ones in Sylhet. Some of them are quite primitive in fact, but I did see
some fairly well to do ones in the Vang Vieng vicinity.
Didn't hang around for long in the village for my Lao is virtually non-existent - I only know the
words for "Thank you" and "hello" - and besides, I had to return for a Lao bath. It would've been
fantastic had I spoken any Lao!
Returned to camp for the Lao bath - sauna with herbs. Earlier I said that I had only had a great
time in Lao Pako and not a fantastic one. But the bath actually made it fantastic! It wasn't as
intense as the Arabian bath but the herbs made up for it.
Thoroughly cleansed, I relaxed on a hammock for the last hour of daylight. It was very relaxing
and I remember thinking how wonderful life is!
Only one bad thing about Lao Pako - the food wasn't all that hot! I had omlette and rice for
breakfast, lunch and dinner! But I saved a lot of money by having that and managed to get out of
the place having spent just over 10 pounds (for everything). Not bad for a touristy place!
Not much to do there in the evenings besides talking but there weren't many to talk to. There were
two nice couples from England besides the staff. Actually, the English people I've met so far have
generally been quite nice. Guess who, apparently, has the worst reputaion? The Israelies for their
impoliteness. Apparently, there are even 'no Israelies' signs outside certain establishments. I
haven't come across any though.
FRIDAY MAY 5
Yesterday I found about the boat free/cheaper way to get to/from Lao Pako. It involves a 3km (35
minutes) walk through the forest before catching a bus/pick-up. Needless to say I returned to
Vientiane this way. Got here just in time for the start of Jum'a.
There were more than 100 for Jum'a at the central masjid. There were quiet a few Lao muslims but
the majority were from the sub-continent. I even heard some Bengali being spoken. The sermon was
in Urdu and the Khutbah in Arabic so I didn't understand jack!
Had lunch after Jum'a at my favourite place right bang in the centre of town. The food is great
there and cheap (by London standard). One thing I am not compromising on is food, spending 3 to 4
pounds a day (almost half my daily allowance) and am eating very healthily.
Last day in Viantiane today. I've actually gotten quite fond of the place. It's so laid back for
a capital city. The people here can still leave their front doors open in some parts of the city.
It would be a nice place to live but I'm not moving in just yet!
Like Bangkok, Vientianne has become almost like a second home as I've been using it as a base. In
someways it will be quite sad to leave it for good. And it will most probably be for good that I
leave...but it is also exciting moving on to a new place!
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