Egypt 2000, Part 4

MONDAY 14 FEBRUARY

In order to make up for the disappointed of missing out on the diving in
Hurghada, before arriving at Suez I proposed that we climb Mt. Sinai. Mustafa
agreed. So after dinner, at 3am we took a bus going towards St Katherines, the
monastery from where the mountain is climbed. The bus was going further South
so we got off a police checkpoint. 

The officers were friendly but they still wanted to see our ID. I showed my
ISIC card. "What has happened to you, Muhammad?", asked the guy in charge,
upset by my health at the time in comparison to the photo on the card. I wonder
what he'd think if he saw me now, when I'm at my lightest. 

After a wait, we eventually caught a paid lift with a guy who worked at the
monastery. The monastery was full of tourists and pilgrims. Left our main bags
in a hotel reception and headed for Mt Sinai (or Jabal Musa). 

There were rough steps going most of the way up to the summit. The steps are
the life time's work of a very dedicated monk, apparently. Though the climb was
steep it only took two hours to reach the top. It was one of the shortest
climbs, but at 2285m it was at the time the highest mountain that I'd climbed 

The views from the summit were spectacular. Not a single cloud was in sight so
the view extended for miles in every direction. Quiet stunning and different
too for I hadn't come across mountains so barren previously. 

But of course we didn't climb Mt Sinai just for the views. Most people agree
that it was climbed by Prophet Moses to receive the Ten Commandments from God.
Quiet an overwhelming thought that we were there. (There was a small disused
house on top.)

After the initial backtracking segment, where we bumped in to of couple of
Japanese maths students and arranged to share a taxi to the East coast of the
Peninsula,  we went down a steeper but quicker route, passing a sacred
(Christian, I think) well. It was a much more fun and scenic route that
involved hiking along a gorge for much of the time. In the excitement, I guess,
I left my bag behind. Though with the help of a couple of Americans and a Czech
I soon got the bag back, on returning down couldn't find Mustafa! 

Arrived back in St Katherines to find that Mustafa hadn't. When he had and so
had the Japanese we took a taxi (the last bus was no more) to Nuweiba - the
longest taxi ride I've ever been on.

Had to barter real hard for accommodation. Eventually settled for 4.50USD per
person. I wish I could speak Arabic. Besides many other reasons, it would've
got us even better prices here as the guy at the desk, who thought I could
speak but wasn't doing so, told us. 

Very cheap but very good food (not kushuri!) for dinner. The very confident cat
thought so too!  



TUESDAY 15 FEBRUARY

In general, Egypt is very cheap but ferry travel is very expensive - $35 for
the four hour voyage from Nuweiba to Aqaba, Jordan. The ship was due to leave
at 1pm. We got there with still more than half an hour left but weren't allowed
in. It was very frustrating, especially as they let in a group of Americans.
They paid more, apparently. 

So we had more time in Nuweiba. More time than we needed for Nuweiba doesn't
have much. Once upon a time it had aspirations of being a resort but now I
couldn't even find postcards. (Hadn't bought one at Mt. Sinai)

Went to the pebble beach but the water wasn't very welcoming. It was
nonetheless very good to relax. Was joined by a couple of village kids, who
want to be fishermen, just like their dads, when they grow up. Sweet! Prayed
with the kids. Nice kids.

It was soon time to leave for Jordan. This time we were present at the gate a
full hour before departure time but only to wait inside. Inside, prayed Asr in
a musollah. And then there was a delay. Long delay. And poor and expensive food
when we eventually got on. (There was a large group of Malaysian students on
the ferry.)

It was very late when we eventually arrived in Aqabah. It was worrying walking
out of the ship without our passports but the officials eventually gave them
back. Whilst waiting, met a traveller from Seuol (I'm sure it was elsewhere),
South Korea.

Was gonna share a taxi with Seoul to a hostel but then was offered the chance
to go all way to Petra for what seemed a reasonable price. But then another
driver offered a better price and the two started arguing. Another joined,
offering an even better price. The argument got very animated. One even offered
to take us for free! It was fun to watch but it was also getting ridiculous.
Followed the advice of a police officer and took a taxi to the hostel. The nice
officer followed us to make sure nothing went wrong. Poor hostel, with a
trickling shower, but liveable.