Colombia 2000, Part 1

Does anybody have a job to offer for me the next month or so?

Anyway...


TUESDAY 31 SEPTEMBER

Despite having already spent two full days in Panama City, and having lived in
it, I hadn't yet explored the old quarter of the city, Casco Viejo. Spent an
hour or so walking around there this morning. 

The narrow cobbled streets flanked by high 16th century French influenced
houses with hanging wooden balconies made the place look very picturesque if a
little claustrophobic. I particularly enjoyed the view of the Puente de las
Americas over the Canal and of the skyline, which was the best since Sydney. 

On one side of the Bahia de Panama you had the old quarter of Casco Viejo and
on the other there were the modern skyscrapers. This was a good reflection of
Panama - a mixture of the new and old, of Hispanics, Native Indians, Blacks and
Asians, of rich and poor. Panama is the richest of the Central American
republics but it is not the one with the highest standard of living, Costa Rica
is. Panama City is much more developed than San Jose, but the smaller places in
Costa Rica are much better off than their counterparts in Panama. Panama is
richer but wealth is spread more evenly in Costa Rica.

After a quick breakfast, went to the travel agent to collect my ticket for
Cartagena. It was worrying to find them closed, with the flight only hours
away. An anxious 15 minutes wait but they came - the mother was taken in to
hospital and the kids were visiting her. Had to go with the son to another
place to collect the ticket. My flight time was fast approaching; thought about
taking a taxi. That would've cost 20USD. The bus cost 30c.

No problem at immigration but the sad loser stamped over other stamps. Sad
case, especially as I'd asked him not to do so. This was the shortest
international flight that I'd ever been on - only an hour. The stewardesses
were in a real hurry to get us fed before the plane was ready to land. Rabbit
food, I'm afraid. And why did I choose water over orange juice! Force of habit,
I guess - usually water is the only free drink!

And so South America, the last new continent. (Antarctica to go but not this
time.) Took a collectivo taxi, which cost the same as a bus would've, to the
centre of Cartagena. The hounding by money changers started as soon as I set
out from the collectivo. They were offering ridiculously good rates but
wouldn't change only a few dollars. I was suspicious and so went straight to a
hostel, Casa Viena. On passing through the area later I was to get abuse ("Tu
Mierda") from one of the changers who thought I'd return to him in an hour with
20USD. I'd only said "I'll try"

Casa Viena is the archetypal backpacker centre. It was very well facilitated
and so there were many. Thought I was back in Khao San Road. It was also the
cheapest place in town - 2.25USD for a dorm bed. 

Robberies, especially from rich foreigners (though it helps not be a white) and
it seemed especially from guests of Casa Viena occur regularly in Cartagena-
two street robberies (though one failed) and one from the hostel itself
occurred in the two days I was there. It's good that they had a safety deposit
box. Prayed Zuhr and Asr before going out to explore the city.

Cartagena! Wow! Is this the most beautiful city that I have ever been to?
Probably not, but the inner walled city may well be. No,  Fes-al-Bali, Morocco,
was better but this was fantastic too. So picturesque, so photogenic, so many
photos but they can never do justice especially given that I'm a very lazy
photographer. You'll have to see for yourself!

Cartagena was the main port where treasure stolen from the Indians were stored
before being shipped to Spain. As such, it was repeatedly attacked by pirates
(including by Francis Drake) so the Spaniards built an elaborate wall
encircling the town and a series of forts. The walled town is a living museum
of 16th and 17th century Spanish architecture, with narrow cobbled streets,
high mansions of wooden balconies, grand churches, palaces and plazas.

It is a fantastic place to just walk about getting lost in wonder. I can't
remember enjoying  a city walk as much as I did in Cartagena. I had the Petra
feeling, though the two cities are very different of course. But in both
places, you'd see a great view, take a picture, move only a little, but then
see an even better sight and so would take another, and so the cycle would
continue. Go there!

For dinner went to Govinda's, a Hari Krishna place, but they only do lunches.
Left the yoga conference for the  hostel. Showered, prayed, and ate at a place
across the road. Very good value -  1USD for rice, lentils (almost like dhal),
fried eggs, chips and salad - though the soup, take two for take one had pieces
of meat (vegetarianism is a difficult concept to understand), was awful!
Watched River Plate of Argentina beat Flamenco of Brazil. 

Went to sleep soon after 11pm but was awoken three times by inconsiderate
backpackers returning from drinking sessions. That's the price you pay, I
guess. Once, I saw one guy waking up another just to offer him a cigarette.