Fiji 2000, Part 2

I am still in Santo Domingo. Tried to bring forward my flight but it was only
possible if I paid $75. So I had 3 extra days in DR. Staying at the only
(Sunni) masjid in the country.  Leave for Florida on Sunday.

Here's is the next day of Fiji...(Why Fiji? A Florida friend is fascinated by
it and so thought I'd write this before others.)


TUESDAY 19 SEPTEMBER

Went back to sleep after Fajr but only for a little while. Had breakfast in the
house of one of the Tablighis who lives in the house next to the mosque. Very
hospitable but that is as one would expect. Dhal, roti, bhazi and papaya. Solid
stuff. Oh, and tea.

Tablighi_London then gave us a lift to the bus station in his car. I think it
was a car though after driving flash Toyotas in New Zealand I had to look
twice. But it moved, eventually, we said goodbye and soon boarded a bus for
Nataman (the name is something else but I can't remember at the moment).

Two reasons for Nataman - a beach and a waterfall. Beach first. Not a very
braod beach but nice and clean nonetheless. Nice warm water too. There was a
very big log there with which we had lots of fun. It was easy for one to get on
but much difficult for two, especially when Mustafa tried to get on rather
clumsily. But we had lots of fun trying, anyway. 

Headed for the waterfall. Walked to a village where we paid an entrance fee of 
2.5USD for two and was shown a short cut. Crossed a river, only knee deep, and
started walking, soon going past a disused airport. My sandals had given way so
I was walking barefeet on the muddy paths. It was taking a long time but the
countryside reminded of Bangladesh so I didn't mind and, besides, we confirmed
with people that we were on the right path. 

Crossed another river after which I saw a tied calf that had wound the rope
around a tree root so that it wasn't able to move. I tried to free him but he
got scared. (I was wearing my red and white Palestinian scarfe and Mustafa was
also wearing a red top.) I told Mustafa to hold it whilst I unwound the rope
but this really freaked out the calf and Mustafa lost control, getting stuck
between the rope and the root. The calf started  bellowing out loud and the
herd, which included a couple of long-horned bulls, was fast appraoching. I
quickly released Mustafa and we legged it to the other side of the river in
time!

Mustafa got a bruise on his stomach but nothing serious. It was heart warming,
though at the same time worrying, to see the herd rushing to aid as soon as the
calf started crying out for help. And it wasn't just the mother who came but
the whole herd. All for one (and one for all.). Fantastic!

In his haste to get away, Mustafa had left his sandals by the calf but the
friendly cowmiddleagedman got it back for him and we were again on our way to
the waterdfall. Crossed countless rivers (maybe as many as 10) before
eventually arriving at the fall. It took far longer than we'd expected and it
wasn't very comfortable walking over the treet roots barefeet. But it was a
full-on waterfall. Needless to say, as all falls are, it was very refreshing.
The water was clean if muddy in colour. Had a good swim trying to get close to
where the water lands but, fortunately, couldn't manage due to the force.  

Recrossed the countless rivers and headed for Nataman via the main track in the
hope of getting a lift. Got a lift to the mosque. Very tiny mosque but it's a
very tiny place. Prayed Zuhr and should've also done Asr. After buying a
take-away lunch that included two boiled eggs each we boarded a bus bound for
the capital, Suva.

Arriving at around 5pm, we soon lost each other - the bus station was near the
market so it was easy to do so. After a very brief but very expensive and
agonisingly slow internet session I went to the main Tablighi mosque. The basic
design - two levels with multiple domes and minarets (though I'm gonna have to
look at the pictures) - was very similar to that of the Sigatoka mosque and
indeed other mosques in Fiji. Prayed Asr, met the young students who live and
study in the mosque. Very nice kids. Prayed maghrib. Mustaf ariived. Met the
elderly Imam from Gujurat and asked permission to stay the night. He said the
government doesn't allow it, especially following the coup, but that he would
make an exception for us.

Hung out with some students, whilst others prepared our nearly wholy vegetarian
dinner. Ate. Very yummy. Prayed Isha and chatted with the Imam and one other
musolli while the students made our beds. Hospitality doesn't come much better
than that. Slept very well.


WEDNESDAY 20 SEPTEMBER

It's great sleeping in mosques with perhaps one exception - it's difficult
going back to sleep following Fajr when others stay awake worshipping.
Eventually we went to sleep only to be woken up soon by the students serving
breakfast. Basic but very filling. 

It was soon time to say goodbye once again. I loved those kids and was sorry
that I had to leave. Thanked the Imam and the kids and headed for the Fijian
museum. On the way, walked through an uninspiring botanical gardens. 

The museum, which seemed to be having a primary school day, didn't overly bore
me so I guess it must've been good. Lots of traditional Fijian tools that
looked very similar to ones found in Bangladesh. Did you know that the Bengalis
went to Fiji before the Indians did? I didn't either.

The bus for Ba was to leave at 1:30pm and we were running out of time so took a
taxi to the Parliament building, which of course was the scene of much trouble
only weeks earlier. (To those who've just returned from Mars and Jahid, there
was a recent coup in Fiji where a half Indian,/half Fijian held the Indian led
government hostage in the Parliament with the apparent backing of top Indian
businessmen.) The Parliament used to be open to the public but no more. So we
only took pictures from the outside, including the sight of the famous Car
Burning Fiesta. The building itself wasn't all that. 

The taxi driver returned us to the centre of town. And then we went to arguably
the best cafeteria that I have ever been to. It was of course vegetarian but
more than that none of the dishes had cauliflower nor brocoli! Moreover, the
choice was blinding - 8 appetizers, 8 main dishes with a choice of sundries and
countless number of deserts. I was spoilt for choice!

Prayed Zuhr and Asr by a green clearing by the Pacific Ocean and rushed to
catch the bus. The paved road soon gave way to a gravel track that itself
turned to just a dirt track before reverting to a paved road once again. Went
past some very nice lush scenery. There are more Indians than Fijians in the
West of the main Island but in the North East very few Indians were to be seen.


Due to the recent coup, we might've expected some trouble in Fiji but it was
very safe and trouble free. The only things that gave it away were the police
checkpoints, especially on this journey. But the stops were very brief though.

The long journey ended at about 6:30pm. The bus stopped near to the mosque
where we were to spend the night. Met the Pakistani Imam who longed to be in
England, prayed Maghrib and then Isha. Went to look for a place to eat but
everything seemed to be closed. And it was only 8:30pm. A couple of places were
open though. The first had next to nothing (Mustafa tried to have the boiled
casava) but the second, a restaurant, had a very good vegetarian selection.

I usually get ready for bed before Mustafa but he usually falls asleep first.
And then he'd start snoring, keeping me awake even longer. This time, the
mosquitos also weighed in.