Cuba 2000, Part 3

I write this from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, only 15 days from London.
Yes, only half a month left. Inshallah, I will get used to it.

I think the last time I wrote to you all was from David, Panama. Since then
I’ve been to Colombia, Venezuela and Cuba. Below is the last day of Cuba…


WEDNESDAY 22 NOVEMBER.

At last a free day. At last a day to enjoy La Habana without having to deal
with beauracratic losers. (How do you spell the 'b' word that came before
'losers'?)

Very leisurely start to the day. It was 10:30am by the time I'd finished a very
filling breakfast of spaghetti napolitana with chickpeas. It was too filling so
lied down for a few minutes. Fell asleep and the minutes turned to more than an
hour. Was out before noon but had to return 15 minutes later to collect the
book - Islam, Our Choice - that I'd borrowed from La Casa De Los Arabes.

Walked through Central Habana to the Capitolo near Habana Vieja. The two parts
of the city are alike except that the former doesn't see many tourists. The
narrow streets with three to four story high balconied colonial houses are very
similar though Central Habana is blessed with fewer plazas and the houses are
in poorer condition. The architecture reminded me of Cartagena though La Habana
is much less beautiful - less colourful but dirtier and smellier. Colombia is a
much richer country, after all.

Apart from the major roads, most of the narrow streets have little traffic - a
welcome site after the lung busting Caracas though one could still feel the
pollution from neighbouring streets if not the stench of open garbage loads -
but there were many rickshaws. And many of the street corners had stationed
policemen. Syria had similar, though less so, and I was unnerved at first but
soon got used to it. The policemen here, like those of Syria, are friendly and
helpful. Some of them even salute you when you approached them. It felt kinda
weird. In most countries one might be wary of them being corrupt, but Cuba has
no such problems. Fidel has them very well disciplined.

The Capitolo building looks much like that of Washington and other US models. I
spent some time reading the book before popping in. The entrance fee of $3 was
too much but the Internet cafe was free to enter. It being one of only a
handful of sites in the country, there was a queue. Took a number and went to
Barrio Chino.

China Town's around the world usually have lively and happening atmosphere.
They also tend to have many Chinese. La Habana's had neither. I only saw only
one Chinese (though even he might not have been) but lots of very picturesque
derelict buildings. I don't know why but a street of old broken down buildings
looks much more picturesque to me than one with shiny glass and steel
structures.

Returned to the Capitolo. Waited only moments before getting on to a computer,
which pissed off a couple of Europeans. This being Cuba one needed to show
one's passport to use the Internet. I was told later that this was because they
didn't want locals to use it. The Internet is far too dangerous. It is far too
free. They don't want the people to find out what the outside world thinks of
them. The media in Cuba is of course strictly controlled but the Internet is
much more difficult to control, if not impossible. I feel very sad for the
people.

It was now 3:20pm. Next up was a visit to a famous Habanos (Cuban cigars)
factory/shop. Unlike the coffee factory of Boquette, Panama, no free tours were
on offer here. $10! So I just settled for a browse in the shop. Too expensive
for even a single cigar costs more than $6. But I should've bought at least
one, I feel. There were plenty of street vendors offering the cigars at bargain
prices but they wouldn't have been the ‘real’ things!

Walked through Habana Vieja to the restaurant where I had lunch on Tuesday - if
you find a good place you have to return to it - pausing on many occasions to
take photos of the very photogenic, and yet at the same time quite run-down,
streets. Waited a long time for my order but it never came so I left after the
drink. Went to La Casa De Los Arabes to return the book and pray Zuhr and Asr.
Still no Muslims, I'm afraid.
  
Continued on my exploration of La Habana. Yesterday I told you about swanky
supermarkets with plenty of empty shelves but no eggs. But success at last! Not
far from La Casa De Los Arabes, this one shop had nothing but eggs! For 90c
bought six eggs and some travel information. Actually, the travel information
was free. Their government may charge foreigners for everything, but Cubans are
very helpful. Following me, a man bought 3 eggs with his ration book.

I then paid a visit to Plaza de Armas (I think that was the name), named after
one of the nation's heroes. (Oh Mr Grammar, Usamah, should that have been 'one
of the nation's hero', instead). Pretty plaza but no more. But there was a book
fair. My intention was only to browse but ended up buying three essays of Jose
Marte, another hero, in English, Spanish, French, Italian and Russian. I
shouln't talk too much with shop keepers as I quickly feel obliged to buy
something I don't really want because I feel that I've wasted their time!

Strolled to the river/estuary front. Pleasant. Very photogenic old cruise liner
on the opposite side resting against the steep bank on top of which stood a
large statue of Jesus. Communist country but they don't mind Catholicism. All
hell would break loose if they did. Fidel is a very shrewd man.

My stomach was calling and though there were plenty of places to eat there
wasn't much to eat. Cuba is full of empty cafeterias. Only some non-vegetarian
stuff and pre-packed snacks were on offer. Plenty of drinks though.

Next was a large artesian market by the river/estuary. Lots of interesting and
neat stuff. The prices weren't too bad either but I expected the Dominican
Republic to be cheaper. Bought a Che Guevara hat not because I'm a fan but
simply because it looks cool! Lots of interesting people there who found it
strange that I had enough to travel the world but not enough to buy souvenirs
for a few dollars. But the reason why I have enough to travel the world is
because I don't waste on souvenirs, I told them. Pleasant and enjoyable
browsing session.

Headed back to the Casa Particular. On the way took a picture of a billboard
poster that read "Save the World" and showed a star-spangled sleeved hand
holding a piece of string on which wobbled the Globe. The ways of America are
the ways of the world.    

Had bread, fried eggs and spaghetti napolitana (for the 5th meal running!) for
dinner. Settled my account (4 nights for $55, a good rate for Cuba), wrote,
slept. It was a very enjoyable day in La Habana.

Though the city itself has lots to offer, it is it's inhabitants who make it a
fun place. I'd always take time out to talk to them, even if I was in a hurry.
They are very chatty, very friendly and despite their poverty seem very
cheerful. And they all (almost) seemed to know where Bangladesh is and
recognised that I was a Muslim and would say salam to me. It felt great!

The people are some of the friendliest I've met anywhere in the world and
sometimes I wonder whether the fact that they live in a socialist society has
something to do with their friendliness. You know, not having the capitalist
vice of selfishness and ideal of profithood intoxicate their minds. I'm sure
the people would be friendly whatever the case but the society may have had
some effect.

Whatever the case, I don't like the system in Cuba. It abuses the ordinary
people in favour of the political elite. That's sounds like a line taken from
the US but I've been told this by people who live in Cuba. And the fact that
the ordinary people are so nice makes me feel even sadder. The trade blockade
against Cuba should be lifted immediately. Just like in Iraq, it is hurting the
people, not the system.