Oxford is perhaps unique among British towns in having cattle grazing within a mile of its city centre. Beautiful! There was once a proposal to build a road through it but widespread protests led to its rightful abandonment.
Aside from the academic excellence of the university, its picturesque setting would've made it even more of a privilege to have studied there...
Oxford lies at the confluence of the Thames and the Chertsey, along its gentle banks we continued our afternoon stroll, stopping intermittently to take in the idyllic and serene atmosphere.
Passing us by on the oh so calm waters of the Chertsey were rowing and punt boats, which we resisted in hiring. Why would we when we were going to the Lake District?
Along the other side of the riverside path was an algae filled ditch that fascinated our resident scientist, Mr Haroon...
A perfect day for ice cream, though very expensive in this touristy area as expected. Bought two - one for Abdullah and the other for Yousuf and Zainab. And Alhamdulillah they shared lovingly, filling their parents' hearts with joy too. MaShaAllah...
And so on to exploring Oxford, and more specifically its historic university and its environs. Its grandiose architecture, hallowed cloisters, and manicured lawns and playing fields are truly inspiring - a gem of a campus that most probably draws in more tourists than any other university in the world...
Our intended departure time of 11am didn't materialise but an hour's delay was not bad considering having to collect the Cruze and fit it with the car seats and load it with the gear.
The unforgivable delay was driving through Central London, as suggested by Google Maps. I thought the traffic might be ok as it was Sunday. Wrong! Lesson learnt - A406 and M1 is the way to go.
We didn't arrive in Oxford until a little after 3pm, and hence the hurried car park lunch (of kebab rolls) rather than the riverside picnic - the kids were really hungry...
Excited to be back on the road again!
Another hire car, an automatic Chevrolet Cruze. SIXT didn't have a manual of our size - why, when we'd reserved it weeks back?
The automatic drank a lot despite attestation to the contrary by the rental clerk. It made the mountain roads easier but less fun.
At least it looked good...
The drive to Madrid was tiring. We stopped at a couple of service stations, once to have a short nap and the other to ask for a warning message on the dashboard of the Zafira. It was minor.
Drove fast for three reasons - it's safer as it stops you falling asleep because you have to concentrate more; it gets you there quicker; and, I just enjoy driving fast! I should have been wary of cameras though. Ended up paying €200 in fines, my first ever despite numerous past transgressions.
In Central Madrid we met my cousin, Dilwar, who left Britain due to immigration problems. He is trying to make some sort of life for himself in Spain. May Allah ease his path. Aameen. I wished that we had put aside more time for him.
We left for the airport with plenty of time in hand. It was just as well as our free sat nav failed us again! This was the last adventure of the tour, and as we were misdirected around there came a point where I really thought that we might not make it. The heart was pumping.
At one juncture, Hamida told me to go the reverse way on the motorway! And due to feeling of desperation I had seriously considered it and started to turn the car around. But sanity prevailed, Alhamdulillah!
We got to the airport with very little time to unpack the Zafira and pack for the journey. A mad rush ensued that kept the adventure alive up to the last minute.
There was even a verbal scuffle with the checking assistants. I felt disrespected due to our colour and possibly also because of our travel worn appearances. And, for good or bad, my ego doesn't let these things pass go!
It was time to say goodbye to Spain. Thank you for hosting us most beautifully. We will remember you.
At least I had the IPL to look forward to...
Goodbye Granada - you have joined the few places in the world which I have had the pleasure of visiting on more than one occasion; you have joined the ranks of Petra, Marsa Matrouh and Siwa Oasis; you have reinvigorated in a me an appreciation of history; you have made me yearn to return to you; you have become my favourite city.
Before saying goodbye to you we went to collect a front grill of the Zafira which had come off on a dirt track of yours near the Alhambra in our search for a car park earlier in the afternoon. Alhamdulillah it was still there! Can you see Abdullah running with it to the Zafira?
As the sun set, so did our little tour of the most picturesque and culturally rich province of Spain. After dinner in our trusted Zafira, instead of in a vegetarian restaurant due to forgetting its name, we were back on the road to Madrid...
After the Nasrid Palace, we went to the Alcazaba but it was closed. No great loss as we'd seen the Malaga one and InshaAllah we will return in time.
A final stroll and a few final pictures and we were soon back in the Zafira...
The Nasrid Palace is indeed the nnumber one historical attraction in Spain for its elegant and natural beauty. Though it's man made of course, I describe its beauty as natural for a number of reasons: its complementing of its natural surroundings; its inducing of peace and serenity in its visitors; and its delicate and gentle aura.
Arabic inscriptions adorn the palace throughout. Some were eulogies to the various sultans but most were verses of the Qur'an.
The most common phrase howeverhowever "There is no Conqueror but God" A befitting inscription for any palace. If only the latter day Moors had remembered it...
The Harem is the third of the palace's three major quarters. This was the private living (and basking in the pleasures of life) area for the sultans.
Its courtyard, the Patio de los Leones is another archetypal image of the Alhambra. My words cannot do justice to this splendid heart of the harem. So let Washington Irving try:
"It is impossible to contemplate this scene, so perfectly Oriental, without feeling the early associations of Arabian romance, and almost expecting to see the white arm of some mysterious princess beckoning from the gallery, or some dark eye sparkling through the lattice. The abode of beauty is here as if it had been inhabited but yesterday."
Good try Washington, but...
Yousuf was not in a good mood at the Nasrid Palace. In the beginning he constantly wanted to be carried but got better as we went along. Zainab wanted to run around everywhere but was also not in the best of moods, but again improved. Abdullah was fine MaShaAllah.
Two of the pictures here are at the northern end of the Patio de los Arrayanes. The third is in the Patio de los Leones, the courtyard of the Harem...
The Patio del Cuarto Dorado leads on to the second of the three series of the rooms, the Serrallo. In these rooms the sultans world receive distinguished guests and emissaries.
The rooms of the Serrallo open up to what is perhaps the classic image of the Alhambra, the pictured Patio de los Arrayanes. This is certainly my favorite part of the palace and the one I remember the most from my first visit 15 years earlier.
The tower in the background, Torre de Comares, houses the royal throne room (Salon de Embajadores) where Abu Abdullah handed over the keys to the city to the Catholics...
We really didn't do the Alhambra justice at all, not just with time by also with prior research. I am having to read about it in our guide book and look at pictures from Google to figure out my own pictures!
We entered the Nasrid Palace via the Mexuar, a series of rooms that were used for administrative and judicial purposes. These stunningly decorated rooms of ornamental stucco led to the pictured Patio del Cuarto Dorado. This courtyard has the grandest facade of the whole palace. You need a wide angle camera to capture it, not a camera phone...
En route to the Alcazaba, discovered a long queue by the entrance of the Nasrid Palace. Which viewing slot was this for? It was for our one despite there being best part of an hour til the start time.
What were we to do? We didn't want to be turned away due to it being "full" so we queued too. The walkway leading to the palace was a running playground for Yousuf and Zainab...
Both Yousuf and Zainab were tired and needed to be carried or pushed, and sometimes I had to do both due to the many steps and stairways of the Generalife. It was hard work but rewarding. Long may I be able to do this InshaAllah. Aameen.
We headed towards the Alcazaba, spotting people idling about in the more remote corners of the Alhambra and wished that we had the time to do the same. You need time to soak up the atmosphere of the place and not just look at its marvels. We only got glimpses of that atmosphere.
One we reasoned on visiting again when the kids are older and with lots of time on our hands, our rushing stopped and our enjoyment increased.
We strolled towards the Alcazaba...
Some adventures are unwanted at the time but then become stories to tell and hence good memories. Our journey from Masjid Garnata to the Alhambra only qualifies on the first count. What should have taken 10-15 minutes took well over an hour due to the myriad of one-way roads and our free sat nav's inability to recognise them.
This most obtrusive time wasting left us just three hours to explore the Alhambra. We had to priorittise - the Generalife, Alcazaba and the Nasrid Palace. Headed for the Generalife first but with muted enthusiasm - it had been dampened by our frustrating tour of Granada's labyrinth of unidirectional streets.
The Generalife was the gardens and summer palaces of the Granada's rulers. It is a series of ornately landscaped courtyards of patios, cypresses, fountains and other water features that bring tranquility to one's soul and yet yearning in one's desires, a problem in trying to create a "paradise on Earth"
As we strolled about the gardens my enthusiasm grew and I was ready to enjoy the rest of our Andalucian odyssey...
This is the view from the terrace of Masjid Garnata, our favourite of the whole tour. It's an epic view of the Alhambra with the green and snowcapped Sierra Nevada as the backdrop, and I've come to appreciate its beauty, majesty, grace and grandeur even more so in hindsight. AllahuaAkbar!
The photo with us in it is probably my favourite image of all time, from any of my travels...
Due to a little light traffic and leaving the Sierra Nevada slightly late we thought that we'd be late for Jumu'a. But Alhamdulillah we were an hour early as the start time was 3pm at Masjid Garnata.
There was an Arab brother and sister selling delicious looking food outside the mosque who promised to guard the Zafira against parking attendants. Alhamdulillah, they did a good job!
While waiting, chatted with a South Asian Malaysian documentary producer who was making a History of Muslims in Spain programme. Interesting.
The majority of the Jumu'a congregation was Arab (Moroccan and other North African mostly) but there were plenty of native Spanish Muslims too. They had information stalls outside the mosque MaShaAllah...
Headed down to Granada on the same awesome road that was once featured on Abdullah's favourite programme, Top Gear.
This is a view of the Rio Genil and the reservoir created by its damming. Beautiful. We wished that we'd had more time in the Sierra Nevada...
Abdullah loved the tobogganing. So did I. So did Yousuf. So did Abdullah and Yousuf together. Then I took them higher up and for some unbeknown reason swapped their seating positions. Big mistake.
They came down excited as before. But the toboggan went out of control. They rolled. Abdullah was unharmed. Yousuf's feet got stuck on a resting loop. I ran towards them. Abdullah ran towards his mum and in tremendous anguish for his little brother. Hamida had filmed it all.
Yousuf grazed his face on the snow/ice. His eyes were also black. This was our main concern. It looked superficial but the intention was to see a doctor or at least a pharmacist. Alhamdulillah none were needed. Paracetamol and lots of comforting was enough. It was a close call nonetheless.
Abdullah had a few more goes before we headed down...
Pico de Valetta, Andalucia's and Spain's second highest mainland peak at 3,379m, lay above us to the right. It looks quite close and a flattish walk. The camera lies. But it's still a relatively easy hike up from hereon in the summer. InshaAllah.
One of my favourite pictures, this is Yousuf before the tobogganing...
To please me, Hamida agreed that we should continue going up the mountains rather than heading straight back down to Granada. What an inspired decision!
The road up from Solynieve continues over the Sierra Nevada and joins Capileira on the southern side. It is closed to all traffic except tourist buses during the summer. This we already knew. But we didn't know that before reaching the barrier the road climbs up above the snowline.
Driving at over 2,500m with the relatively gentle spring sun reflecting on the brilliant snow on either side was one of the most memorable experiences of the tour. And totally unexpected.
Also unexpected was tobogganing...
This is of course the best view from any of our hotels/apartments. SubhanAllah, what a glorious sight to wake up to!
After the breakfast of toast, fried eggs, cereal and hot drinks, we prepared egg fried rice for lunch. In hindsight, we should have perhaps instead left an earlier to saviour the majestic sights that lay on our doorstep...
It had already been a tough ride for Yousuf and Zainab but it was to take us a more than half hour more to go from the underground car park to the flat.
We were on the lowest level; the nearest lifts didn't work; we couldn't find any that worked; walked to outside of the building but couldn't find a different way in; left some of the luggage and walked up to a level with a reception; nobody was there; decided to walk all four floors up to our apartment; stumbled upon a lift.
Thought we'd found the flat; the key didn't work; started cursing the receptionist at the office; we weren't told that there was a Building A and a Building B; walked across to the correct one; the key worked!
Alhamdulillah it was a warm and spacious flat. Abdullah and I collected the remaining luggage while Hamida cleaned up Yousuf and Zainab, who were covered in vomit. It was too tough on the them.
Abdullah and I then went to a local mini market and bought a couple onions, a Pepper and, as a reward, a Doritos for my son. The intention was to cook but it was too late. An unwanted adventure it sure was...
Laguna Fuente de Piedra to Solynieve in the Sierra Nevada took longer than expected. But winding up the mountains in the last hour from Granada to Solynieve was as stunning as imagined.
We reached Solynieve just after sunset but it took a while finding the offices of our apartment agency. Poor directions. Solynieve is a commercial resort but I was still disgusted that they charged us an extra €10 for checking-in after 8pm.
Our apartment building was higher up the resort. Finding it was not an issue but finding the flat itself was an unwanted adventure...
The smooth tarmac road gave way to a heavily potholed one and then an unsealed one for a stretch. This picture is just into the potholed section.
The birds are clearly visible on the lake though without binoculars it's impossible to tell whether they were flamingos.
We completed the circuit of the lake, and a truly memorable few hours by its shores, and duly headed for the Sierra Nevada...
Still on the western side of the lake but moving southwards we stopped at this mirador that afforded the best views of the lake.
Yousuf, despite being photogenic, is not very keen on photos I'm afraid and we often have to hold him to get a decent photo of him. Just like here.
Zainab is more natural. Here she is pointing at a bird. "Bird, Abbu!"
What is Abdullah doing an impression of? A monkey? A chicken? Funny boy...
On returning, it was time to load up and head off around the lake again. Before that I had to get Zainab in the car though. But she was more interested in a beetle!
Abdullah and I went down to the water's edge but it was fenced off due to the lake being a protected nature reserve.
Quick photo of the Zafira and it was time for the next view point...
The 10:30, 2.22km run back to the Zafira was probably the most enjoyable mile and a half of my life! It was the setting. Must go for more runs like this InshaAllah, especially with Edmondo to motivate.
Despite running in boots it was very comfortable MaShaAllah. During the running I was often thanking Allah for giving me the ability to run. Long may it continue. Aameen.
Within 15 minutes of leaving the family I was back. Hamida was surprised...
The reason for coming to Laguna Fuente de Piedra is that it's Europe's only inland breeding ground for the lesser flamingos.
Unfortunately we were a month or so early and so hardly saw any, if at all. We did see some birds in the distance but it was difficult to decide whether they were flamingos or not.
At the hide we didn't see any birds but that didn't detract from our enjoyment much though. The feeling was still euphoric.
Leaving the family at the hide I then ran back to the visitor centre to collect the car...
We left the visitor centre and went for a walk 2 and quarter km walk to a bird watching hide. It was the most beautiful of country walks.
We first followed a narrow straight path with lush vegetation on either side that at several points were riddled with ants, of which Yousuf was weary but Zainab daring. Then we strolled along a wider path with the lake to our left and the pictured green and yellow fields to our right.
It was beautifully peaceful and serene. Not just for the senses but more so for the soul. We need to go on more such country walks InshaAllah...
